What is hallmarking?

The process of marking precious metals started way back in 1238 AD when standards were first formalised. However, it wasn’t until 1300 that Edward I introduced laws requiring metals to be assayed (tested) to ensure its level of fineness.

In order to be moulded, worked, reshaped and polished, precious metals have other metals added to them to create an alloy. For example, copper is added to silver to make it more malleable and easier to work. Without it, the silver alone would be too brittle. If there is too much of this additional metal, the final result won’t meet assay standards, and consequently, won’t be hallmarked.

Does all my silver and gold jewellery need to be hallmarked?

Not every piece of precious metal, be it jewellery, sculpture, cutlery or art needs to be assayed. There is a weight limit for each type of metal, for example any item made from sterling silver needs to be assayed if it weighs 7.78g or above. 

Typically this will include bangles , heavy pendants and some bracelets. If you need to use tools to remove the chain from the pendant, then the chain is included in the weight.  If the chain slips off the pendant easily, the chain and the pendant are weighed separately.

The higher the value of precious metal, the lower the weight limit for hallmarking. The weight limits are:

• Platinum 0.5g
• Palladium 1g
• Gold – 1g
• Sterling Silver - 7.78g

This means that smaller pieces, earrings, for example, or small pendants and rings made from sterling silver will not need hallmarking.   They may of course still be hallmarked for other reasons, but it is not a legal requirement.

The weight is based only on the precious metal of the item; gemstones, seaglass and unattached chains do not count towards this weight.

Why do we need hallmarking?

Hallmarking adds a cost to each piece of jewellery that requires it, so why do we need it?

This testing and stamping of precious metals ensures that the end buyer is protected; as it is impossible to tell the quality of metal simply by looking at it. It is easy for people to sell tin, aluminium or steel jewellery and pass it off as high quality sterling silver.

It also protects the seller, who has legal proof that they are selling what they describe and helps to improve the trust between them and the consumer.

The increase of sales online has made the hallmark even more valuable.  Many people are buying from producers they have never met and have no relationship with.  Hallmarked jewellery gives buyers confidence that they are buying what the seller says they are.

What is in a Hallmark?

Each hallmark has the following compulsory marks:

1. A Sponsor’s mark (who made it)
2. What the metal is (e.g. sterling silver - 925)
3. Where the item was assayed (e.g. London)

There are optional marks that can also be added.  These include:

1. A date mark
2. A traditional fineness mark
3. A convention mark

Every Sponsor’s mark is different – I chose my initials, LK, wrapped in two small ovals, which represented my career in farming, depicting two small potatoes!

My mark is a laser mark, rather than a stamp, which means I can vary the size of the mark depending on which item I am having assayed.

There are 4 Assay Offices in the UK; London, Sheffield, Edinburgh and Birmingham. Each has its own mark for identification purposes.

I have chosen Sheffield as my Assay Office, this is where I studied design at University and it’s where I feel my creativity journey started all the years ago. 

Sometimes there are special hallmarks commissioned to celebrate national occasions. This year we have had a special Coronation Hallmark to celebrate the Coronation of King Charles III. The design was of a side profile of King Charles III’s head. 

I have used this hallmark as part of a design for a 'Coronation Pendant', the item fell under the hallmarking weight, but I really wanted to design a piece for this special occasion.

Each item has to be sent away to Sheffield and tested before being returned and polished up.  This process can take 2 – 3 weeks, which is why some items have a longer lead time than others. But do get in contact, I often have items in stock ready hallmarked for sale, so it’s possible this time can be reduced.

If you have any questions about hallmarking, or whether the item you are interested in will have a hallmark, please get in touch either via email or through the message option on the website.